Area Communities

Big Timber

The early 1880s brought the railroad to the country. Originally called Dornix, Big Timber was named by a railroad official in St. Paul who read William Clark’s Journals. Anticipating the westward advancement for the winter of 1882, a few enterprising individuals constructed the settlement of Dornix (meaning large smooth stones) at the spot Clark called 'Rivers Across' in his journal.  Unfortunately, due to an open winter, the railroad didn’t stop but went to the foot of the Bozeman hill. To build the railroad bed vast numbers of logs were cut in the mountains during the winter, and then floated down the creeks during spring high water to points on the railroad. With its position, Dornix was the logical spot for docking the logs coming down the Boulder. Having hurt Dornix, the railroad now gave it a purpose for existence.

Again the railroad interfered. Dornix was just below a hill making it difficult for the trains to stop and then make a standing start at the hill. They preferred to run on up to the long flat above Dornix and then stop. In 1883 Dornix was moved lock, stock and barrel to Big Timber's present site. Several years after the move, the railroad again high-handedly affected the town when the railroad officials in St. Paul, Minnesota renamed it Big Timber (referring to Clark’s journal notes from 1806). The area became a large sheep ranching area and is now a successful agricultural area, with strong community bonds. The beautiful Crazy Mountains provide a perfect backdrop for all types of out door recreation, photography and scenic drives.

There are several historical buildings in Big Timber, including the Grand Hotel (built in the late 1800's). It is now a Victorian B & B. It has an old fashioned lobby, with big comfortable chairs to sit in. It also has a long mahogany bar in the old saloon. Gust’s Department Store has had the same owner since 1950. A display of vintage clothing sets off the old tin ceiling. Many other stores were built at or before the turn of the century.

Melville

Melville sits twenty miles north of Big Timber on Highway 191 near the northern border of Sweet Grass County. The community boasts a colorful history, complete with rodeos. Located in the heart of an agricultural community, Melville is home to a few houses, and a rural school and “teacherage”. In 1877, only nine people lived in  the Norwegian Settlement. Three log cabins were the beginning of Melville, named for Colonel Melville, the famed Arctic explorer. Mail was collected in a cigar box for the stage to pick up on its way to Bozeman. Gold miners from Virginia City purchased land and sent word to their relatives in Minnesota of the abundant water, grass, and timber so much like their native Norway. The first child of Norwegian descent was born in November 1881. The midwife used an oilcloth from the table to shelter the mother and baby until the men finished the sod roof on their new home. The first post-mistress, Mrs. Puett, kept her prize stallion in a specially made stall in her kitchen to protect him from Indian raids, which continued as late as 1880. As more settlers arrived, the first English speaking school in Sweet Grass County was established in Melville in 1882. The school was used for all church and social functions, including the first election in the Melville Precinct. Of the 14 votes cast in the election, nine were Republican and five were Democrat. By 1883, Melville was receiving weekly mail from Big Timber.

In its heyday, Melville had a flour-mill, a cheese factory, a hotel, at least four saloons, two stores and a drug store. The railroad in Big Timber made such luxuries as dried fruits and green coffee available. From its humble beginnings, Melville was destined to earn the reputation as one of the toughest little towns in the state. The individuals who helped it earn that name were such men as Mel Jewell, Charlie Brown, Sim Roberts and “Tench” Hannon. It became a saying that if you wanted to get out-fought, out-rode, or out-run, come to Melville. Melville was the gathering point for miles around for Saturday night dances. Horse racing was especially popular in Melville, where stakes were high, not only for money, but cattle and horses, too.

Located a country mile from the little town of Melville you will find one of the earliest churches in Montana. In 1885, a hard- working, self-sufficient group of pioneers organized the first Lutheran Congregation in Montana. In November 1914, the little white church, complete with steeple and bell, was dedicated. There were 18 services held at the Melville Church in 1915, two in English and 16 in Norwegian. At the annual meeting in 1932 it was voted to allow women members of the church to vote and hold church office. A resolution was also passed fewer sermons be preached in Norwegian. In 1934, church minutes were recorded in English for the first time.

The Melville church still stands in its place at the foot of the Crazy Mountains and has services every Sunday. The two-room Melville school still educates future generations of ranchers, business owners and lawyers. There are fewer bars in Melville now, but the area remains largely the same as it was when the first settlers found this wild and beautiful country. Soak in the peaceful vastness of the prairie, and imagine the early days of the cattle and sheep ranches built by the Norwegian settlers of Sweet Grass County.

McLeod

Nestled in the beautiful Boulder Valley just 16 miles south of Big Timber on Highway 289, McLeod offers opportunities for fishing in pristine mountain streams, rustic resort getaways, camping, hiking, hunting, horseback riding and much more. Once a stop for freight going up the mountain, there is a school, post office and camping in McLeod now. McLeod is also a great home base for sightseers and photographers.

W.F. McLeod moved into the Boulder Valley in 1882 after he drove a herd of 125 cattle and 200 horses into the Boulder Valley from Oregon. Although prospecting had started in Independence in 1869, McLeod was considered the first permanent homesteader so the town was named for him. The Boulder Valley residents conducted their first election in 1884. On June 11, 1886 the McLeod Post Office was established with the mail coming in on horseback from Big Timber. The first school started in the spring of 1887 with five children in attendance.

Greycliff

Greycliff is 8 miles east of Big Timber, located to the north of Interstate 90. Greycliff was named for the sand stone bluffs near the town and was established in 1882. The little town was located under the bluffs on the south side of Interstate 90 just east of the present site. There was a coal dock, water tank and a “̀Y” to turn the engines around on the railroad. A general store, saloon and boarding house with a few year-round residents made up the town. In 1890, the Northern Pacific Railroad moved Greycliff nearer to the tracks and the Yellowstone River. The first school was built in 1910. Between 1910 and 1924, Greycliff thrived. It boasted two general stores, a blacksmith shop, garage, livery barn, lumber yard, grain elevator, railroad depot, hotel, saloon, saddle shop, restaurant, post office, pool hall, dance hall and cigar factory. With the increase of motorized transportation and the completion of Interstate 90, the little town slowly became the close-knit community it is today. A state fishing access site with restrooms and picnic area is located north of town along the Yellowstone River, and the Prairie Dog State Park is located just southwest of Greycliff. Today, the small town has a post office, an elementary school, and a few homes.